Year 2 Tailoring Processes: Week 4

Production of tailored collar and rever sample

This is my finished sample i created during the workshop producing a collar and rever.

Using the skills i learnt from week three i pad stitch the canvas for the lapel and sewn on the tape roll onto the front of the calico piece. I pressed interfacing onto the inside facing of the jacket and to the bottom of the hem on the jacket.

To create a curved collar i pressed it down to hold the curved shape on the collar in.

 Front View

Close up of melton under collar

Side view

Innovative stand up collar

In order to create a stand up collar i made a pattern by measuring around the collar after i had sewn the front and back sides of the jacket together. As you can see i then added a 1cm seam allowance around the collar. I folded the fabric over and placed the pattern onto the folded fabric line as that's where i was going to cut up to.

I cut two pieces out for the stand up collar and then ironed on interlining on one side of the two collar pieces. 

To attach the collar onto the jacket i then pinned it down to secure it in place.

This is what the collar looked like after i had sewn it onto the jacket and onto the inside lining and facing.

Final stand up collar finished

By creating a Melton under collar sample helped me to understand the process involved when creating a collar, i decided to create a stand up collar with top stitch detail on the inside. I found creating the pattern easy but tested it out a number of times in calico, to make sure it was the right length.

The process of sewing the collar on was long as i had to sew the lining to one side of the collar and then sew the outside jacket of the to the other side of the collar. Lastly i then sewed the two collars together, topstitched inside the collar to hold it in place nicely.

 Front View

 Front View close up

 Back view of collar

Close up top stitch on the inside of the collar