During the first week the workshop was based on creating our own darts for our own benefit as well as making notes in order to fully understand darts in a way that i could understand. By practising darts a number of times by creating advanced darts helped me understand how create and move darts on a bodice. By drawing 8 designs that feature a facing, fullness and flare and dart manipulation helped me understand how to create a pattern from a drawing into a pattern by doing a step-by-step process of how i managed to create patterns for each of my eight design ideas.
Advanced Dart Manipulation
Shoulder dart and Side dart
Above is my drawing of one of the dart designs I want the dart to go on the should as well as at the side of the bodice.
I started off by drawing around the front half scale bodice block and the darts. I marked where I wanted the side dart to go from the bust point. I closed the bottom dart and then slashed open the new dart which can be seen above.
I then drawn around the new bodice shape with the new dart at the side as you can see from the photo above.
To create a final pattern i added a 0.5cm seam allowance as the final pattern was half scale.
2. Dart Into A Seamline
For this design I wanted to create a patter piece for this dart design idea above, as i wanted a dart going into the seam line.
As you can see I drawn around a half scale bodice front and then marked out where I wanted the new dart to go and closed the top dart so I could slash open the new curved in dart. I've drawn in a curved line between where the two darts meet as the bodice will become two separate pattern pieces now that I've changed it.
To this final pattern piece above i drawn around the two separate pieces and then added the 0.5cm seam allowance for the new half scale pattern.
Zips
Edge to Edge Zip
This is my sample of an edge to edge zip I found it a bit tricky to sew as I haven't sewn a zip for ages but managed to successfully create a good sample as you can see.
Concealed Zip
This is my sample of a concealed zip I made as part of my development of being able to sew different zips.
Visible Zip
This is my sample of an visible zip, i found this the most hardest zip to do as the instructions weren't that straight forward to follow but i managed to finish off the zip in the end even though it took me ages to figure it out.
Skirt Fullness and Flair
Puffball Skirt
I started off by drawing around a half scale front a-line skirt block and then pivoted over the dart to change the top shape of the skirt as you can see from the photo above. I then split the bottom of the skirt into three equal sections.
I then traced off the three sections I had marked out earlier ans then slashed the sections of the skirt up. I opened out the slashed pieces as far as I could the wider the slashed skirt the more volume created on a puffball skirt. Once I has happy with the size of it I then drawn around the new shape.
After I had drawn around the new shape I then added a 0.5cm seam allowance as the pattern piece was for half scale not full.
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